Article published in the Express and on their website June 25, 2010. The original article is also visible here .
Made for you like a glove, this part of the male wardrobe is a luxury which only a few tailors ensure sustainability. Investigation in these haute clothing.
To carry out a bespoke shirt experience is as delicious as painful. Because, if ready-to-wear, we simply ask you the size of your neck and sometimes the length of your arm, the same approach tailored requires that you spend two hours in the hands of a tailor , that examines in detail more than twenty points of your anatomy. Experience that would make it more to persuade Brad Pitt first came it was actually closer to Quasimodo. "We can not do anything, explains, a bit fatalistic, Jean Grimbert, director of Arnys house, the perfect man does not exist. We all have one shoulder higher than the other, an arm imperceptibly longer neck a little thin or its opposite, a way to keep us more or less vaulted ... and that is to compensate for this small sum of abnormalities than those who once tasted the joys of bespoke shirt can then go back. "The man knows whereof he speaks. His father, Leon, was blouse, her grandfather was also Jankel. To believe Chatolufsen.blogspot.com, the blog specializes in the jacket in "large extent", it would be one of seven experts in the subject in France, and can claim in any event, having taken regularly, in his shop in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, the measures of François Mitterrand, Yves Saint Laurent, François Fillon who can make her famous shirts.
Buttonholes, a detail that fans particularly enjoy
The budget required for one of these beauties in cotton, silk, linen or cashmere? No less than 550 euros. A perennial luxury, since the manufacturer put aside a bit of fabric in your coupon for repairs can wear the collar or cuffs, but a sacred investment anyway! Besides that you must wait. In Arnys once spent two hours choice of fabrics, shapes and measurements taken under the expert eye of Michael Korn, assigned to tailor the shirts, you must return Try the canvas, yet we will adjust to your body, then wait two weeks so that the workshops Touraine of the house finally deliver the object of delight. What do you recognize a bespoke shirt? "A delicacy of the work, says Jean Grimbert. The neck flaps, the gorges of the round, hemming the edges, the hem closely spaced: everything is assembled and sewn by hand. It's the same for buttonholes, a detail that fans particularly enjoy and that our workers tourangelles perform with such precision that they are real embroidery! " A cloakroom
insider ... to the initial
About embroidery, just one who spends such a budget for this part of his wardrobe was custom to have embroidered initials. If the French suits are a little "me-you-seen" the American custom of the place on the sleeves, they usually advise putting them on the left, just below the chest at the height of the third button . The epitome of chic is for them to do so almost incognito embroidery on the skirt of the jacket. At Smalto, which also has a workshop tailored shirts (about 750 euros for a model city and three weeks of time), it offers the same, with an extension of 80 euros you embroider patch emblem or wherever you want. It is not certain that your crown will be Viscount at its best position on your chest ... Ralph Lauren, which states in its new store on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, a fitting room to produce semi-measure shirts (made in Italy, seven-week period, fewer choices in tissue sections or but the rates starting from 300 euros ...), a feature is to remove the logo of a polo player who usually appears on the chest.
Other luxury homes there are
Evidence of enthusiasm for this part of the wardrobe male, tailor Zilli, which this year celebrates its 40th anniversary, has launched a bespoke shirt service in three of its stores worldwide: London, New York and Paris. She bought it for a few months ago a workshop in Bergamo, Italy, where orders are finalized. Here the process differs slightly. All necessary measurements are taken on the client, then it is invited to endorse a model among the five "control folders", more or less sport, curved or dress, which corresponds to its size in ready-to-wear. It is only then that the tailor is engaged in a set of hands and sketches, adding a bit of ease in the chest, suggesting that the 9 of 13 passes or wrist forms should at best provide up to half a centimeter and more on the sleeve of a man accustomed to bulky watches. It will then choose it from over 300 coupons for fabric weaving and subtle variations in quality. Which cotton crack, for example? Of Giza 45 and very long fiber, from the Nile Delta, or Sea Island incomparably silky to the touch and came in line with plantations of Barbados or Jamaica. Finally chosen on the shirt, and ten days after the fitting, Zilli is strong to deliver his work. The rate of the first models, the pretty pearl buttons Australia, is here charged 650 euros. But you can always be replaced by the pearl buttons of gold or even precious stones ... Especially if you won the lottery.
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